Essex down to the start of the Champlain Canal south of Chipman Point Marina

Residence in Essex, perhaps an old
 school house?

Essex, New York is a pretty town with many antique and architecturally interesting buildings. Unfortunately we arrived on a Sunday, part of the marina docks had been damaged due to the recent heavy rains, and numerous businesses were closed. We did find a restaurant - "Old Dock House Restaurant and Marina" for a pleasant dessert.


Vergennes

Otter Creek

From Essex Harbor we traveled across the Lake to the eastern shore (Vt) and 7 miles up Otter Creek to the delightful little town of Vergennes, a hidden gem. We tied up at their town dock, no facilities (restrooms, showers, or fuel) other than electric We could walk up a small hill to their main street, shops, restaurants, convenience stores and town offices. The night we arrived, we met a couple who lived aboard their 38 ft Kadey Krogen boat, and attended the town's Strawberry Festival that evening. We stayed 2 nights in Vergennes again due to weather, and started back down the Lake heading for the Champlain Canal to take us to the Hudson River, around NYC, and home to  south coast Massachusetts.


Early Sailing Canal Schooner  

Philadelphia

Next stop was Basin Harbor  and Resort, home to the Champlain Maritime Museum with a working revolutionary war gunboat replica, the Philadelphia and the  Lois McClure, a replica of an early sailing canal schooner, currently sailing and boating through the Champlain and Erie Canals to Buffalo to celebrate the 200 year Anniversary of the initial construction of the Erie Canal in  1816. See more at www.canals.ny.gov.    At Basin Harbor one can tie up at their courtesy Dock to explore the Museum and dine at The Red Mill restaurant. Interestingly, the restaurant sits beside a small airfield where patrons of the Resort and restaurant can land a small plane and stay for awhile. The Resort reminds us of the Resort from the Dirty Dancing movie. Although the Dirty Dancing Resort was located in New York Catskills, just sold and is to be demolished.
We moored overnight in Mile Cove, just North of Basin Harbor.
We continued our journey south passing the Crown Point Bridge ( Lake Champlain Bridge) and one of International Paper Company's mills,www.internationalpaper.com largest in the world for their type of product ( corrigated paper for packing and other packaging products.
From there we continued to Chipman Point Marina www.chipmanpoint.com, meeting our boater friends with the Kadey Krogen.


Chipman Point Marina     

Unfortunately most of this trip (over 1,000 miles) had  more rainy, cloudy days than sunny. We arrived at the Marina on a Thursday, hoping to make Lock 12 on the Champlain Canal on Saturday. We were convinced to stay Saturday night as the Marina was hosting a Pig Roast and Fireworks for the July 4th Holiday weekend. Again, it rained off and on Thursday, Friday and continually for 5 hours on Saturday cancelling the Pig Roast. The up side is that it cleared by early evening and the Fireworks put on by the Marina Hosts, Pat (female) and son Chip were fantastic.
By Sunday, we were out to the Canal, checking their site for Lock closures due to the heavy rains and rising water. As we approached Lock 12, the falls were roaring and high. Most Locks are placed where there is a waterfall of some height or rapids and shallows, making it impossible for a boat to travel through. We called the Lock as we're approaching, and were told that most of the Canal was closed and there were boats hanging between lock 7 and 8 as the lower Locks were closed also.  The Champlain, Erie, and Oswego Canals were closed for 3-4 days until the water levels lowered and debris was washed aside. We turned and stayed 2 more nights, until July 4th at Chipman Point Marina. We had traveled 3 hours to Lock 12 and 2 hours back to the Marina. The current was with us on the way back so we were cruising at 10 mph., 3 mph faster than our usual 7 mph. By this point, we needed to replenish our food supply, water, fuel, and get a pump out. Our Host, Pat, offered her personal car, so we could drive to the market for food supplies.
A note on measuring mileage on the water: inland waterways are measured by statute (land miles) and ocean and coastal waters are measured by knots(nautical miles). There is a small difference in the calculation.
Stay tuned for my Canal and  Lock experience.

 

Burlington, VT and beyond

Suzan along 1st St. Market Place

Burlington Harbor sailor

I needed a few days to recoup - mind you, this is my first boat journey and my first time living on a boat for more than an overnight. Living on a boat: our boat is 33 ft long and 10.2 ft wide, through much of it's length -  not bad. We get along in narrow spaces and really don't need our "own space". My issue is with the expanse of water with no or little land in sight as we experienced on Long Island Sound. I am learning through this journey that I need to set boat traveling conditions with the captain (Dean) i.e. I don't want to be far from shore.
I jumped ship at Shady Harbor Marina, New Baltimore, outside of Albany, unfortunately for me, just as we were entering calmer waters, canals, and locks. Dean had decided to continue alone and go through some locks up the Erie Canal before going back down to Waterford to traverse the Champlain Canal up into Lake Champlain.


Dragon boat

 After a few days to catch my breath and my will, (10 days) I was ready to resume my journey with Puffin, our boat and hubby/captain Dean.
 Mid June, I rented a car and drove to Burlington, Vt to meet up at Burlington Community Dock. As I had rented a car, we were able to grocery shop to replenish before returning the car at the airport. Then back to the boat via Uber.



Burlington/ Plattsburgh ferry

We spend a day touring Burlington, a vibrant college town, and then continued north on the Lake to see other spots. First stop was Malletts Bay, still on the mainland but bordered on the northwest by Grand Isle, also known as South Hero Island, with a nice inner cove to tuck in at Champlain Marina, one of the nicer marinas with full amenities including laundry/shower facilities. To get into Malletts outer Bay, you have to sail through an opening in the northern end of an old railroad bed no longer in use by the railroad, converted into a biking and walking trail on either side of the boat opening. We stayed 2 nights due to rain and thunderstorms. This entire journey has been marked with more weather related stays than sunny days. Then on to South and North Hero Islands, almost to the Canadian border. We stayed at North Hero Marina again tucked into a cove, Pelots Bay to be exact. Here again we had to pass from the main body of the lake via an opening in a former railroad causeway to enter the bay. We attempted to boat to Rouse's Point, on the Canadian border, alas, again, the weather predicted rain and thunderstorms for much of the day and the waves were kicking up so it was decided to travel down Lake Champlain along the western shore passing Plattsburg, around Valcour Island, an historic location and popular anchorage spot for sail and power boats.

Rugged shoreline above Burlington

From here, we ended the day in Essex Marina for an overnight.




Dean and the Canals

Canals- Erie - to Lake Erie, Oswego- to Lake Ontario, Champlain- to Lake Champlain.
Troy, NY about 10 miles above Albany, has the New York Federal Lock that allows you  to start the New York State Canal System either west to the Erie Canal and branch off in the Oswego Canal or north to the Champlain Canal.

Once thru the Federal Lock, the town of Waterford has a public dock, where you can tie up and get  information about the canals, restaurants, public facilities, before starting your Canal journey.

Erie Canal to Lake Erie- 340 miles-35 Locks
Erie Canal to and thru Oswego Canal to Lake Ontario 184 miles - Erie- 23 Locks, Oswego- 7 L
Champlain Canal to Lake Champlain-60 miles- 12 Locks

2017 marks  the New York Canal System Bicentennial 200th Anniversary of the start of the construction of the Erie Canal and for those traveling the canals by boat, it is offering toll free navigation on the Canals for non commercial boaters during the year.

 Sooo Captain Dean wanted to experience some of the Erie Canal before committing to the Champlain Canal to reach Lake Champlain so I can return to the journey.     Once thru the Federal Lock in Troy, Dean continued up the 5 lock stairs (one right after the other) and up thru lock 9. There are walls in the Canal where you can tie up for the night and most had restrooms and/or showers available.  From there Dean turned around and came back down to Waterford where he turned North for 11 locks ( 1-12 no #10) on the Upper end of Hudson River turning into the Champlain Canal to reach Lake  Champlain. At times the Hudson River is so shallow and narrow a Canal is dug so you can get through. This took about 9 days to get to the southern part of the lake where it gets wider and 2 days to be in Burlington, on the Vermont side.

One experience was Basin Harbor, home of the Champlain Marine Museum www.lcmm.org and replicas of Lois McClure schooner ( that is sailing this summer on the canals to Buffalo to help celebrate the 200 anniversary of the start of building the Erie Canal). The museum is a nice walk from the courtesy dock at the Basin Harbor Resort www.basinharbor.com and you can stop at the Red Mill restaurant for a meal on the way.

Gate to regulate water flow in the canals

Once in Burlington at the Community Dock I joined him.
Next- Lake Champlain and more of the journey

Up to Albany, Troy and the start of the Canals

From NYC we traveled up the Hudson River about 33 miles from the Battery and stopped at Croton on Hudson (Half Moon Bay) for the night, as we had traveled rough waters- 3 ft waves up the Hudson with the winds and I was done for the day. A storm was brewing and I wanted to be in safe harbor.  Many other boats thought the same and we ascended on this Marina, probably 6 boats within 1 hour. We stayed 2 nights with the rain and wind. We passed West Point and the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) on our way up the Hudson River to Kingston, NY, docked at Roundout Creek, an inlet off the west side of the Hudson. Tied up to the dock and met a couple from Michigan, who live aboard  a 58 ft  trawler style boat named "Tinacious", that they designed and had completely  re-built themselves from a bare hull, a massive project.
 Riverport Wooden Boat Building School is located there and Dean was enjoying chatting with the boat teachers and students.  We stayed there for 2 nights (weather-rain) and walked into town for a meal with "Tinacious" owners, Art and Pam.

Last stop before Albany/Troy area is the Shady Harbor Marina, 10 miles south of Albany. There we met some Loopers we had previously seen at Half Moon Bay Marina and Kingston; and other boaters who recognized our boat from passing on the Hudson River.  There is a restaurant on site and you can chat and play outdoor games with fellow boaters.

It didn't seem possible that we were going to be able to meet with friends in Montreal due to weather related traveling. We needed to decide on an alternate path as part of the Erie and Oswego locks were closed for a short time with the heavy rains and we also heard about some issues with the Ottawa River .

By Friday, I decided I needed a break, after roaming what I called high seas -3/4ft waves, (from my non boater status), rain and wind. I jumped ship and drove to Massachusetts for a little regrouping. My anxiety with the weather led us (Dean) to decide to take the Champlain Canal to Lake Champlain where I can rejoin our journey.
Next one- Dean with the Canals, regrouping, and redirecting our trip.

Some things to know

Boats- the type you choose is a big consideration.  Most of the Loopers (boats cruising the Great Loop or any part of it) we connected with had power boats a bit larger than ours.  Ours being 33 ft motor sailor with masts down, and 10ft 2 in width.  Some of the power boats, trawler style,  were from 36' to one we met from Marathon, Fl. a live aboard, at 58 ft, a bit larger than they had anticipated, to a 48 ft live aboard.  These couples no longer own land homes, their boats are their homes.  A little scary for me at present although, I would like to perhaps have a 36' ft trawler on the intercoastal down south.  And there were a few hard core sailing people making the Great Loop in their 40 some feet sailboats. One couple we met were from Finland and sailed to the US from there to travel the Great Loop.

Coming from South Coast Massachusetts down to NYC, there are many coves and tucked in harbors and marinas to spend the night, not much in anchorage or moorings. Many along the way to NYC charge from $2.50-3.50 a foot for dock space. We had to tuck into some of them as our weather beginning the trip was not ideal- much rain, wind, and high seas. We were able to get  free moorings with the town of Fort Washington in Manhasset Harbor but is was too windy and wavy for me that day so chose to go into a dock.  You can anchor behind the Statue of Liberty if the waters aren't too busy.
As you journey farther up the Hudson River you can find Anchorage and Moorings at least 50, 60 miles from the Statue. There are many areas to tie in the Canals or at a Lock with nice parks you can be on land for a while. 2017 is an Anniversary for New York so the NY State canal system is not charging for canal travel and tie up.

Marinas- Many of the larger and better equipped Marinas, especially on the Hudson River,  are very familiar with Loopers and welcome them. The boats traveling the Great Loop or any portion of it Triangle, Champlain Canal Loop, will spend $$$ for supplies, groceries, any boat repairs, restaurants, laundry, fuel, pump outs, at the Marinas with these conveniences. The dock fees range from$2.25/ft to less than $3.00/ft plus a few $$$ for electric. on Hudson River Marinas as you get up the river about 50 miles.  Sometimes the dock fee is worth it if you have been traveling 6-7 hours a day for a few days,  and need a shower and laundry, or a meal you did not prepare on a boat. Stay tuned for the Hudson River and the NYState Canals

East River around the Battery and up the Hudson

I know why it is called the Battery.  You get battered around by all sizes of boats, waves from the boats, tides, wind, and ebb and flood currents from the tides.  That is a mouthful and a boatload of obstacles to maneuver around. The weather was not the best, cloudy, though no rain, and some wind.
We started out from Port Washington, LI about 10:00 am so we could catch the currents at ebb on the East River from Hell's Gate- which is about the middle of a 14 mile run from Throg's Neck Bridge to Manhattan (the Battery). Eldridge's Tide and Current Book start at the Bridge 2 hours after low tide at the Battery. We had to calculate the low tide, 2 hours, and our speed getting to the bridge and Hell's Gate to figure how to travel with the ebb currents or fair current in East River the last 1/2 of the 14 miles. Ebb currents can work in your favor, carrying you 2-3 knots faster than your normal cruising speed. Catching the wrong current can put you up to that much slower than normal.  We tried to time our trip around Manhattan for flood currents in the Hudson River. That didn't quite work in our favor, but not too bad. To see Manhattan (NYC) from the water is something to behold!! The skyline mixing old architecture with new modernistic is incredible and a little weird.  There are many buildings higher than the Empire State Building especially the new 911 structure in downtown Manhattan. From the west end of the East River you can see the Statue of Liberty in all her magesty at the base of the city. Anchor behind it or moor in Liberty Park, on the New Jersey side.  We dodged tour boats, cruise boats, small and large, and many other boats, including Looper boats such as ourselves going up the Hudson to the Canals.  I am learning there are different routes(loops) to take on this journey.  Heading up the Hudson River was a challenge, with all the boats and the current not always with us. It wasn't against us that much, just chugging along.  We recognized other Loop boats we had seen or docked with earlier. Next blog-- journeying up the Hudson River with other Loopers and other routes to take.


From afar
 



New vs Old
 





Stuck with the Weather.

We thought April showers bring May flowers.  Apparently not true according to the weather guy upstairs.  Just a challenge to my (Suzan) seaworthiness.  Started out last Wednesday with reasonably good weather.    Except when we were out in more open seas, we were rocking and rolling, as I call it.  Only made it past Padanaram Harbor and turned back into that harbor as I was not doing well with the higher seas.  Moored at the NBYC, nice with launch service. Looked at the weather on NOAA charts-- not good for a few days-- we (Dean) and Woodstock (our cat) moored for 2 nights.

Thursday morning I returned home we were only 10 miles away by land, 1 1/2 hours by boat. Had to regroup for weather , and this will not be the only weather regrouping.  I, not being a bonified boat person, choose not to ride the 2 ft waves.  Friday Dean brought Puffin back to the dock we started from and was out again to Point Judith and New London, Ct. on Saturday.  I, and the cat, opted to take a train from Providence to New London on Sunday to meet him in New London. I arrived at 1:30 and Dean had just fueled up at Burr's Marina. We stayed 2 nights at Crocker's Boatyard, closer to downtown New London. Nice Marina, family owned since late 1800's. www.crockersboatyardinc.com.                      

Out again on Tuesday after making a trip to Defender Marine in Waterford, next town from NL.

On our way, seeing how far Puffin motors in about 5 hours, quite a push for me, having been on the boat for only 2 hours traveling from home in over 2 ft seas.  We listened to the marine forecast and the seas were to be less than 1 ft and cloudy skies. We had a current with us for most of the 5 hours, pushing us at 8.5-9 knots so arrived at Branford, Ct . Our normal is 6-7 knots as we are a motor sailboat without masts and sails for this trip. we have a small inboard Diesel engine. Unfortunately we were at Branford for another 2 nights in a slip. We planned to leave around 10:30 am and the fog rolled in so we had to wait it out. Luckily it cleared by 12:30 and we were on our way to Stamford, a long hall, arrived about 5:30 -beautiful city, huge boats.


Off and boating the next day to Manhasset Harbor,  had a tough time with 3 ft waves coming into their harbor. We wanted a mooring, it was so windy and wavy that I opted for a dock. We are spending a lot of $$$ for docks/slips as moorings aren't readily available along the Connecticut and Long Island coasts.

Stay tuned for our journey down the East River, around Manhatten, and starting up the Hudson River.